Çanakkale to Gelibolu -- end of tour!

Getting the semi, tour busses and gravel truck onto the ferry

It started raining overnight and was still raining this morning when we left the hotel on our bikes. Due to the rain and headwind, our tour leader changed which ferry we were getting on in order to cut off 8 km (5 miles) from our route. Instead of crossing to Kilitbahir, we took a different ferry to Eceabat. It was very interesting to watch the ferry workers guide in a semi, tour busses and a gravel truck on the ferry before we left. It was so cold and windy, that I didn't stay outside for long once we started moving.

Leaving Eceabat

From Eceabat, there was nothing to do but cycle. Some used to cool, rainy weather (e.g. Scotland), were in shorts with a rain jacket. I had on all cool weather gear (shorts, leg warmers, arm warmers, shirt, vest, jacket) plus my rain pants and raincoat. On our 40 km (25 mike) ride, we encountered several chasing dogs. I lost my group a couple of times either from getting off my bike for a dog or struggling to keep up going uphill or braking downhill. One of the strong cyclists would wait for me and tell me to hold onto his tire and help me catch up. He, Diane, Claudia and I ended up cycling most of the way together. In desperation, I clung tightly to the wheel of the cyclist of front of me, hoping not to slow them down while at the same time knowing that I didn't have it in me to face the headwind and rain alone.

1915 Çanakkale bridge

We stopped to take a photo of the 1915 Çanakkale bridge. With all the rain, it's difficult to see in the photo. However, it's quite impressive as currently the longest suspension bridge in the world. Our route took us under the cables suspended to the shore.

We made it to the finish!

Finally we made it to our destination, a fish restaurant. Our day packs were waiting inside with our changes of dry clothes. Three tour busses dropped off tourists while we were there; and, we had a couple curious tourists ask about our cycling trip. For lunch, I ate shakshuka, which was unfortunately cold, and hot halwa. Both were delicious! While we were eating, we saw dolphins! They went by our in the water behind a ship.

If only we could have ended our trip yesterday after Troy, our bikes would be relatively clean. However, now they will go to the bike packer covered in mud. It has taken over four hours to drive to our hotel in Istanbul. We could see the top of the Blue Mosque as we drove in. At the hotel, the employees served us a delicious drink called Ottoman sherbet while we waited to check in. Our tour officially ends in the morning.

Çanakkale to Troy and back (Turkey)

Today’s hotel had an extensive spread for breakfast. After seconds, we walked over to the nearby Trojan Horse sitting on the promenade along the Aegean Sea. This specific one is a prop from the 2004 movie “Troy”. We weren’t the only tourists getting photos in front of it.

At the last minute, our tour leader mentioned that we should bring our tennis shoes to the van so that we could walk around the archaeological site of Troy. I hadn’t thought that we’d have a chance to explore the ruins, so, that made me more excited to cycle out to Troy. Along the way, we stopped for a couple of photos near the sea, at a WWI monument and in the middle of the fields. Surprisingly, the terrain is flat farmlands nearer to the Trojan ruins. 

Once we arrived at the Archaeological Site of Troy, we switched into our tennis shoes and ate some snacks from the van. Then we paid our entrance fee (currently 27 Euros for tourists). There is also a Trojan Horse inside the ruins, which has a ladder into its belly, which was closed off anyway. Diane was able to download the free audio guide for the site. We started by listening to some of the history. But then switched to reading the informational signs as we continued walking through the site. There is a wooden boardwalk path and railing to follow, although there are many reminders not to lean on the wooden railings, which are not very sturdy.

The original city of Troy was built in 2920 BCE. (At the site, this is called Troy I.) Then, each subsequent rebuilding is atop the previous city. We were struggling to picture this until we came along a sign color coding the layers with nearby sections of walls marked with I, II, III, etc. Even then, it can be baffling as buildings are marked as part of two different periods. From the various signs, I’ve tried to put together a timeline below.

- Troy I - 2920-2500 BCE - destroyed catastrophically 

- Troy II - 2500-2250 BCE - destroyed by fire. Can be shown that tin used for bronze production.

- Troy III -

- Troy IV - 

- Troy V -

- Troy VI - 1700-1250 BCE - probably destroyed by earthquake

- Troy VII - 1180 BCE - probably destroyed by fire - Trojan War

- Troy VIII - until 85 BCE - destroyed by Roman commander Fimbria

- Troy IX - 85 BCE to 1000 AD

It was worth it to start by walking around to the right, as the ruins became more well preserved as we got to the newer periods. At one place where there were the bottoms of earthenware vessels still embedded in the ground of a house, two men were clambering on the ruins. They assured us that they were archaeologists. When they heard that I was from Canada, one of them mentioned that he had even been to St John’s and Ottawa. 

Altar and sacrificial pits

Roman odeon

We continued along the wooden boardwalk to a set of altars and sacrificial pits (not water wells that I’d assumed). Then, we were moving past to the Roman ruins, from an Odieon (small amphitheater) to Roman columns. After finishing all this, we went back to the van for more a snacks. 

Wind Towers near Troy

Then, we got back on our bikes to cycle back to Çanavale. We’d had a tailwind heading out in the morning. Now, we were into a strong headwind through the flat fields. Now all the wind towers on the horizon made sense! It was tough going until we got back into hills with foliage.

Komotini (Greece) to the Turkish border with a drive to Çannakale

It’s Sunday today, which made most of the roads quieter than usual. We left Komotini around 8:30 am, heading east out of town. Since it was another longer day of 117 km (73 miles), with a border crossing, we were on a tight schedule. At the first coffee stop, the tour leader had pre-bought coffees and was handing them out, although all we really wanted was food, raiding the van for snickers bars and bananas.

The last few days in Greece, we’ve seen cotton balls along the side of the road. Today we saw a big, empty, cotton trailer go by with many cotton balls still stuck to its metal bars. Later, we passed it parked in a cotton field. Later on our route, a trailer full of cotton passed us, with cotton balls gently floating out. 

We’d had a slight wind from the northeast on our way to the first coffee stop. Afterward, we climbed a hill and then hit a headwind coming down the other side to our second coffee stop. We had to stop for a photo for a break as we saw the Aegean Sea and the olive trees on the hill. Any break from the wind! It grew stronger and stronger as we made it to our second coffee stop at Alexandroupouli, which was a cute town along the sea. There, we got a delicious phyllo pastry wrapped around ricotta cheese and doused in sesame seeds and honey.

After Alexandroupouli, the headwind got even worse. For awhile, three of us were  in a tight line, trying to rotate every 3 km (2 miles) to take turns bearing the brunt of the wind. We did stop once along the route. The wind was brutal! The final 7 km (4 miles) felt like the longest distance ever. Yet, finally we had reached the Greek side of the border! We walked all of our bikes through passport control into No Man’s Land. While waiting for the luggage van to clear passport control, we got some food and refreshments. Once the van cleared, we cycled across the bridge separating Greece and Turkey to get to Turkey’s passport control and customs. We had to wait for the luggage van to go through customs. Then, we were finally set to all pass through the enormous arches welcoming us to Turkey!

Due to Greece changing clocks last night but Turkey not participating in Daylight Savings Time, we gained an hour of sleep last night but then lost it again as soon as we crossed into Turkey. Battling a headwind most of the day didn’t help our overall speed today, either. We were supposed to cycle down into Ipsala to meet a bus to carry us all to Çannakale. However, it was so late by the time that we’d cleared the border that the bus met us right outside the border. All the luggage came out of the van and into the passenger bus with us. Then, the driver took us down to the Gallipoli Peninsula and across the 1915 Çannakale briodge, which is currently the longest suspension bridge in the world. Unfortunately by the time that we arrived, it was dark out; and, we couldn’t see much. 

Thassos to Komotini (Greece)

This morning we were up before 7 am in order to get our luggage onto the van, eat breakfast, and, walk our bikes down to the 8:30 am ferry to Keramoti. At least we were about the only ones on the ferry, so, I was able to curl up on a bench seat and nap the 40 minute ride. When we got off, we only had a 15 km (9 mile) ride to our first coffee stop. There were many coffee shops at the same roundabout but none had pastries! Our hotel had sent a flakey pastry with custard along for this morning; and, a piece of that gave me the energy to walk over to three “pie shops”, which all served similar items.

Leaving with the “turtles”, we slowly but steadily cycled to our next coffee stop. Today, we did encounter a pair of chasing dogs. They chased the cyclist in front of me. Then, the tour leader and I went by the dogs more slowly; and, the dogs didn’t find us quite as interesting to even bother chasing. A few kilometers before the second stop, all the strong cyclists zoomed by and passed us. The next coffee stop wasn’t even open, so, we snacked from the van: bananas and rice puffs (which are slowly starting to grow on me) and some sweet, sesame-coated peanuts.

Fava beans for lunch

Only 20 kilometers on to lunch. The strong cyclists stayed together in a tight line; and, I tried to keep up with them a few yards behind. (Riding on someone’s wheel without being able to see what’s in front of me still makes me anxious.) At one point, they picked up the pace; and, I fell behind by a football field’s length but at least I could still see them to chase after. At lunch, I enjoyed a bowl of beets and a fava bean dish with capers and green onions.

Monastery of St Nicholas

After our lunch stop in Porto Lagos, Diane, Claudia and I left last because we knew that we’d be stopping to take photos. The tour leader stayed behind to ride along with us. We were cycling through a marshland. Along the way, the tour leader pointed out the Monastery of St Nicholas on the water. We stopped to walk our bikes along the wooden dock out to the church. However, the man running the entrance came hurrying along to tell us “no bikes!” and that our knees had to be covered. Instead, we turned around our bikes and got quick photos before heading back to the road.

 Greater Flamingos!

Continuing on, we stopped to check out a large flock of large white birds with pink spots. They were very noisy; and, the Merlin app was able to identify them as Greater Flamingos. After this point, we were less than 20 km (12 miles) from our hotel. It was a great day of riding flats!

Roman mile markers

Tonight, we lucked out in finding a self service laundry. We were able to wash enough clothing to get us through the rest of trip. While we were waiting on our laundry, we walked over to the entrance of the Archaeological Museum of Komotini. There were a few stone mile markers and a sarcophagus sitting outside on the front lawn. The mile markers were for a road that went through Komotini around 200 AD. It was interesting to read about the history of these almost 2000 year old Roman stoneworks.

Thasos (Greece)

We didn’t have to pack up this morning because we’re staying another night in Thassos. There was an optional ride around Thassos Island this morning; and, half of us chose not to ride it. I believe that it’s the same route as the annual Thassos Tour that happens each May, a total of 96 km (60 miles). It is so wonderful to have an entire day to explore a town full of ancient ruins!

In one of the little free libraries in my neighborhood, there was a 20-year-old guidebook to Greece with a page on Thassos. It seems that Thassos has less well marked and maintained ruins now, or, perhaps it’s because tourist season is over. Many restaurants and shops are closed until next summer. As far as Google Maps is concerned, there is no longer a Thassos Tourist Services and thus no maps. Google Maps did locate some of the other ruins mentioned.

Agora

My first stop was the Agora, which is next to the Thasos Archaeological Museum. It is a surreal experience to simply walk through and atop blocks of stone that were carved and built 2500 years ago. No entrance fee. No docents or guards. Simply free rein to explore. Later in the afternoon, I wandered by the other end of the agora to see three school girls using the agora and temple to Artemis as their path to get home.

Amphitheatre 

From the agora, I followed signs for the 4th century BCE amphitheatre. There is a long set of stone stones up to it. There were two gentlemen working near the entrance that greeted me. However, the entrance booth window was closed and the gate look locked. A bit of a disappointment. Yet, I kept going up the path that was now a steep trail. There were light posts along it that no longer had working lights, so, it must be a functional path, even though Google Maps didn’t have it listed. Eventually, it met another path. Turning left, I was able to get to a fence surrounding the theatre where work was going on.

Medieval fortress

Turning around, I headed further up the hill on this new path. The broken out, rusty lampposts continued along it, even as it became more overgrown. When there were breaks in the foliage, the views were becoming more and more stunning. Near the top of this hill is a medieval fortress. Later in the day I would learn that the fortress was built over a temple to Apollo. There used to be a sign among the ruins; however, now it is broken and graffitied with all text and images missing. It was great fun to wander all over these ruins and take in the spectacular views of the Aegean Sea.

Aegean sea

The path with broken lampposts continued on the other side of the fortress to another set of ruins. Google Maps didn’t have a name for it; and, there was no sign. Perhaps this was the temple of Athena mentioned in my guidebook. Surprisingly, I heard a cough. Thankfully, it was only a goat! There had been lots of goat poop around the fortress. I hadn’t seen another human since the amphitheatre.

Next the path arrived at the altar to Pan, which was only a semicircle carved into the rock. Another long destroyed sign with no information. Later at the museum there would be a drawing of the other carvings around the semicircle. Where those carvings are today? They didn’t appear to be in the museum. At the top of the rock was the highest point of this hill, from which a ragged Greek flag fluttered in the wind. It was  magnificent spot to eat a snack while enjoying the view from the shade.

Steep stone steps down 

On the other side of this high rock, there was a set of steep stone stairs with a rusty, dilapidated railing. I gingerly made my way down them to the trail below, which now ran along stone walls. The trail was more and more overgrown until it came to four stone steps leading to a dead end neighborhood street. This entire time, I’d been waiting for stray dogs to accost me but have luckily only encountered the ubiquitous cats. Trying not to stand out too much, I tried to greet or wave at all the residents passing or on their porches.

Gate of Zeus and Hera

The street ran into a street with more ruins, the gate of Silenus, which had stone steps leading from the road down. From there, I walked over to the gate of Zeus and Hera, which still has an eroding bas-relief sculpture on its pillar. Here ended the guidebook tour. I wasn’t far from the hotel and went searching for some lunch. Some school girls were eating gyros across from a gyro restaurant; and, they were made just like in Toronto: with French fries rolled in. It was a filling lunch.

Giant Kourus statue at museum

After lunch, I finally headed to the museum. The giant statue in the entrance was excavated in pieces from the temple of Apollo during a French archaeological expedition in the early 1900s. The museum also gave more details on the agora, the amphitheater and the altar to Pan. There were several other sites mentioned that I hadn’t visited in the morning. At the end of my visit, the docent pulled out a well worn map for me to photograph of all the ruins around Thassos. Then, I set off to find a few more listed. They were much smaller. One was a bit of someone’s backyard. It must be difficult to dig a new basement or decide to put in a garden and then find an ancient ruin that must be preserved. 

Ancient ruins in a backyard

Krinides to Thassos (Greece)

Today we woke up to a misty morning. Wisps of clouds shrouded the mountains as we started cycling, yet it was so early in the ride that we didn’t want to stop for photos. Yet, our first coffee stop was only 20 km (12 miles) away; and, we actually spent a long time there enjoying our drinks and treats. It was the first time that I’d found loose leaf tea on this trip. Enjoyed a piece of cold, fried honey dough, too. 

Overlooking Kavala and the Aegean Sea

Our day was so relaxing because we were only cycling 40 km (25 miles) over to Kavala to catch the ferry. After our leisurely coffee stop, we cycled the remaining 20 km through the hills for a view of Kavala and the Aegean Sea melting into the sky. We did stop for photos of this gorgeous view. Then, we glided downhill into Kavala and enjoyed an equally leisurely lunch. The shakshuka that I ordered was the best meal that I’ve eaten so far on this trip. Everyone else’s food looked delicious, too. Would highly recommend Tsalapeteinos Urban Farm if you’re ever in Kavala.

Shakshuka for lunch

We moseyed down to the ferry port after lunch and waited near the van. There were a couple of fisherman holding large reels of line with a large, colorful, two-hook lures. They’d swing the lured end of the line a bit and then whip it far out from the dock, then, walk back and forth along the dock edge trailing the line. All of a sudden, one fishermen jerked his line up and sent an octopus flying up on the dock! Some of our cyclists got photos and video of the octopus. Then the fisherman efficiently killed it and stuffed it a plastic bag. Some restaurant was serving fresh octopus today.

Gull soaring next to me on the ferry top deck

While waiting on the dock, I’d taken various photos of ferries waiting but not of the one we ended up boarding. By that time, many people, including a large group of school kids, had already bordered. There were very few cars. We walked our bikes aboard. Eventually, I walked up to the top deck next to the captain’s cabin. It was a great viewing spot. Gulls soared and swooped at eye level, following us out of the port, eventually leaving us as we moved further into the sea. I’d hope to see dolphins while crossing, but, we didn’t see any. As we got closer to Thassos, we saw a couple of sailboats. There were also floating boxy objects that were anchored near Thassos.

Thassos Island

After the 1.5 hour crossing, we had to get back on our bikes. My legs weren’t really in the mood, even though we hadn’t cycled much yet today. It was only another 20 km (12 miles) to the hotel, which we completed in good time. We passed olive trees along the way; and, in front of our hotel are olive trees dropping olives on the sidewalk. This is the first hotel where we’ve been able to take our bikes up to our rooms. They fit on the room balconies.

Olive tree outside our hotel

Bansko (Bulgaria) to Krinides (Greece)

Today's road profile

Today was another chilly start in the low 40s F (5 C). Every evening our tour leader sends us a climb, wind, and temperature profile. We were all bundled up for our start downhill out of Bansko in the predicted headwind. We didn't even consider the distance or what climbs we'd have because the downhill made it all seem easily possible.

First coffee stop

Pinecone basket at the coffee stop

For the first time, nine of us left town together and hung on as a line of cyclists. We were flying downhill, my Garmin hitting 31 mph (50 km/h). It was intense but I didn't want to lose the train. Eventually, my friend slowed up and let the other cyclists go ahead. Then, three of us were able to enjoy the scenery on the way to the first coffee stop, which was an eclectic place along the highway. Inside, there was a collection of Christmas cacti in plastic pails, as well as baskets made out of pinecones. They even had hot chocolate for me.

Still 1245 meters of climbing today

All the strong cyclists headed off before us. Then, we enjoyed our own more leisurely pace to the border crossing between Bulgaria and Greece. Since both are part of the EU, we didn't have to all congregate with the van before we could cross. However, at the crossing, all the cars were supposed to drive through a sprinkler system to wash off their cars. It was the only way through but I didn't want to get wet! When we tried to go around, the border control officer came over and told us that he needed our bike wheels to roll through the puddle of water accumulating from the sprinklers. Some type of disinfectant?

Baklava and ??

Tiny gas station on the street by the town square

After passing the border, we took off layers of clothing before starting the downhill to the next coffee stop. It was in the cute town square of Kato Navrokopi. There were coffee shops, a bakery, and a tiny gas station. Best coffee stop of the trip so far! I bought some baklava and another unknown sweet treat. Soon, the sweep was texting us that we needed to get a move on for the next 40 km (25 miles) to lunch. All the other riders had already left, some as we had arrived. 

Mountain top above the clouds

Today was starting to feel like a race from point to point along the busy highway. We did stop to take a photo of a mountain summit above the clouds along a rare shoulder on the highway. We are still tourists, after all. When we finally arrived at the lunch stop, all the other cyclists cheered for us. Otherwise, we would have missed it. Perhaps, too, the strong ones were happy that they could now continue onto the hotel. They and the luggage van left soon after we arrived. It was great to see a bike share dock even in this town of Drama. (We spent a lot of today heading toward Drama!)

Bike share in Drama

It was 4 pm; and, I was starving, shoveling food into my mouth. We were also pressed for time, so, only ordered a couple of appetizers, which we quickly ate and then got back on our bikes. The tour leader rode with us the final 22 km (14 miles). We passed the archaeological site of Philippi on the left side of the road but no extra energy (or daylight) to climb that hill to the ruins.

View of the sunflower field from our hotel balcony

Our hotel is in the middle of nowhere. The hotel restaurant wasn't open, so, the tour leader arranged for taxis to take others into Krinides to a restaurant. Very happy that I had extra sardines, bread and fruit so that I could stay back in the quiet of the hotel. Our balcony overlooks a drying sunflower field.