Showing posts with label Den Haag. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Den Haag. Show all posts

Sunday, April 14, 2019

2019-04 - Peace Palace (Den Haag) and return to Amsterdam

Our final stop in The Hague was a tour of the Peace Palace this morning. While anyone can go into the visitor area and giftshop, tour tickets are few and far between and must be booked in advance (see links at bottom of post). However, in the visitor area, there is a small display which makes more sense once you obtain a free audio guide (available in multiple languages). The audio guide provides ~30 minutes of information. We were lucky enough to have booked reservations for a guided tour in the interior of the Peace Palace. It was amazing!

Peace Palace, Den Haag, the Netherlands
The Peace Palace began as the initiative by Csar Nicholas II, in 1899, to have an international peace conference, which was first held in the Hague in the same year. A second conference was held in 1907, by which time Andrew Carnegie had donated the funding and work had started on this impressive building. Some of the forward thinking innovations in this 100+ year old building were central heating and an elevator. In addition, all of the countries outdid themselves with gifts and donations, whether it was beautiful blue tiles from nearby Delfft or a solid jasper vase from Csar Nicholas II that is so heavy (3000 kg or ~3 tons) that it required a reinforced floor. There are tapestries from Japan that took 48,000 weavers working for five years to complete and brilliant stained glass windows from Great Britain showing a timeline of man from being a war-some creature to hopefully an idyllic and peaceful one in the future. A porcelain fountain from Denmark sits in an outdoor courtyard while above a staircase stands a replica of the Jesus statue made from cannons that sits between Chile and Argentina. Our feet trod on carpets from Turkey. Unfortunately, we could not take photos of anything in the interior of the Peace Palace.

Rubber duck shop
After lunch, we made the drive back to Amsterdam. It was our last day here; and, I tried to walk around to some sites that we hadn't had time for previously. Rick Steves "Pocket Amsterdam" has a couple of walking tours that I browsed for sites to see. Part of his Jordaan tour walked back past the Anne Frank House (where I finally saw the Anne Frank statuette) and then past all the tourists into the neighborhood. While I was sitting on a bench, reading from the guidebook, three kids road up on their bikes and knocked on the door next to me, leaving their bikes and going on in to play with the dog inside. Walking down a side street, entire families would go cycling by. Jordaan certainly had a much nicer family feel to it.

From the tower in Kalvertorn
On Rick Steves Amsterdam City Walk, I breezed through the Amsterdam Museum's walkway filled with art (free and open to the public during museum hours) out to the pedestrian walkway on the other side leading to the Begijnhof (not as nice as the one in Brugges). Walking through the Begijnhof brought me to Spui Square, where a small art fair of paintings, prints and some jewelry were for sale. A little further on; and, I was in the Kalvertoren shopping mall, which has a glass enclosed "tower" up to a cafe with beautiful views overlooking the city.

Herring

Coming out of the Kalvertoren mall, the guidebook recommended Frens Haringhandel herring shop. Google maps listed that it was closed today. Thankfully, Google maps was wrong. Finally ate herring in Amsterdam; and, it was delicious! Served with onions and sweet & sour pickles. After that and a large helping of apple pie this evening, I've covered all the Dutch food on my list to try this trip.

Dutch apple pie
If you go....
- Peace Palace is very difficult to get tour reservations. Try both of these sites to try to make reservations (they have differing information):
-- https://www.vredespaleis.nl/visit/guided-tours/?lang=en
-- https://denhaag.com/en/event/45474/peace-palace-guided-tours

More photos here: https://photos.app.goo.gl/NJiEuNUp4uDjKjmT6


Saturday, April 13, 2019

2019-04 - Vermeer, Rembrandt, Escher, and Golden Hague Day (the Netherlands)

Girl with the Pearl Earring by Vermeer
 Our AirBnB is so beautiful and wonderfully located near the Mauritshuis and MC Escher museum, both of which I visited today...after a fresh chocolate croissant from a nearby bakkerij (bakery). Arriving just at opening (10 am), I raced directly to Johannes Vermeer's "Girl with a Pearl Earring" and had a few uninterrupted moments to view it before the school groups and tour groups arrived. The girl's face fairly glows. The colors of her turban and dress are softer than I had seen in print. On the opposite wall is another Vermeer, almost completely overlooked. It is a view of Delft. All of the outdoor Dutch paintings that I've enjoyed show big fluffy clouds hanging in a brilliantly blue sky. After spending some days in Amsterdam and The Hague, I can tell you that the paintings don't lie. The sky has so many moods, even in the space of 30 minutes. However, while we've been visiting, it is often that brilliant blue with puffy white clouds sailing high.
The Anatomy Lesson of Dr. Nicolaes Tulp by Rembrandt
Due to the 350th year anniversary of the death of Rembrandt van Rijn, Mauritshuis has on show all of their Rembrandts. Most of these are portrait paintings. There is a very informative guide about the pieces. In addition, Mauritshuis has a free app which I downloaded on my phone (using the museum's free WiFi). Most pieces have a number listed on the accompanying placard. If there is audio commentary, there is a headset icon on the placard as well. It was interesting to listen to the anecdotes about the artists and the paintings.

The Goldfinch by Carel Fabritius
Some of the other famous Dutch artists on display at the Mauritshuis include Paulus Potter (The Bull), Jan Steen (As the Old Sing, So Pipe the Young), Carel Fabritius (The Goldfinch), Judith Leyster (Man Offering Money to a Young Woman), and Peter Paul Rubens. The current special exhibit on the other side of the building is of the original builder and owner of Mauritshuis.

Inside the MC Escher Museum
Next, my friends met me at the MC Escher museum. Though small on the outside, it is a very well set-up inside, with many of Escher's most recognizable prints. The building itself is very interesting because it used to be a residence for Queen Emma starting in 1901. There are still magnificent chandeliers in the shapes of birds, musical instruments, etc.

Bonifacio, Corsica (1928)
The first floor is all about Escher's early work, which was much more realistic. Many of these are from his travels through Italy. There are even some of his linoleum blocks and printing tools on display. Even more incredible (if you have ever done any printmaking) is that Escher did not use a press. Instead, he laid paper on top of each inked block and manually rubbed the paper with an egg spoon to print!

House of Stairs (1951)
What we know Escher so well for today is his take on tessellations (he visited the Alhambra; and, there are sketches in his notebooks of the mosaic tiles there); and, his beautiful geometric architectures that are physically impossible. The other pieces here that I found very impressive where his Metamorphoses I, II and III, which are long tableaus that go from detailed to tessellation and back again. Truly a delight to view as a whole as well as examine all the details.

Portion on Metamorphoses III

Part of Metamorphoses II (1939-1940)

By this time, we were hungry and made our way to Foodies Lab for lunch, where I enjoyed a delicious burger with wild mushroom sauce. Then, we headed over to the Willig Cheese Shop to finally make our cheese purchases. We've probably already eaten 100 grams in free cheese samples by now!

William of Orange
The sun had come out as we walked back through the Binnehof. Nearby was a little fair set up in the square for "History of the Hague Day". It consisted of various small booths, mostly by local museums. There were lots of activities for kids, including stilts to walk on, mini canvases to paint and free potterjes (mini pancakes). We joined the other participants in hiking up temporary stairs set-up to climb up eye-to-eye with a statue of William of Orange.


If you go....
Mauritshuis is small. However, if you purchase your ticket online, you can skip the line waiting to purchase their tickets at the museum.
- MC Escher Museum has lockers in the basement for your things (1 Euro that is returned when you return your key) and coat hangers where everyone hangs their coats on a trust system that the coats will still be there when they return. What a great life in the Hague!

More photos here: https://photos.app.goo.gl/F9Ebu4yCjUANCjvA9