Sunday, July 6, 2014

Reykjavik, Iceland

Iceland hadn't even crossed my mind when I started planning my six month adventure. However, IcelandAir offered a much cheaper ticket than the other airlines flying to Copenhagen where I was planning my Scandinavia tour. Since it didn't cost anything extra to stay a few nights layover instead of a few hours, I seized the opportunity to explore this tiny island nation.

The population of Iceland is a mere 320,000 people of which roughly 1/3rd live in the capital city of Reykjavik. This gives Reykjavik a friendly, small-town feel. Plus, everywhere I went, everyone spoke impeccable English. My only qualm came when I stepped out of the airport to wait for the bus. It was cold! Around 50 degrees with a biting wind and layers of clouds hanging in the sky.

Most flights from the States arrive in Reykjavik in the early morning. My flight from Minneapolis arrived at 6:30 am. A quick stop at my hostel to drop off my luggage; and, there was an entire day ready to explore.

Breakfast at Bergsson Mathus - fresh fruit and skyr

First stop, breakfast! Lonely Planet recommended Bergsson Mathus's brunch option. Brunches start at 1695 Icelandic krona ($15), so, I opted for a fruit plate and skyr (Icelandic yogurt) for 1100 krona ($10). All restaurants and cafes have water pitchers sitting out. The water in Iceland is very pure and is proudly served.

Reykjavik parliament building, finished 1881

Next, the hostel recommended a free walking tour that started in front of the parliament building at 11 am. Iceland has a long history of parliament, starting with the Vikings in 930 A.D. Reykjavik become the site for parliament meetings in 1845; and, the current parliament building was completed in 1881.

Stone house from the 1700s

We also walked past a traditional stone house that still stands in Reykjavik. In Iceland, there aren't many trees. When the Vikings first arrived, there were forests; however, the they used up all the wood. Without trees, the average Icelander built a turf house. The upper class merchants (usually Danes), built more expensive stone houses.

Corrugated iron buildings from 20th century

During the early 20th century, houses started to be built with corrugated iron. They are very colorful. There are still some sections of Reykjavik with corrugated iron houses today. However, now all buildings are constructed in concrete.

Meat soup (lamb, carrots, potatoes, celery)

On the tour, we heard a bit of Icelandic music, a story about elves and saw the hotdog stand where Bill Clinton ate when he visited Reykjavik. Our guide was full of interesting information on Reykjavik's past and present. He recommended some different places to eat. One was a trailer serving meat soup. It was soup broth with carrots, potatoes, celery and lamb. Perfect to warm up after two hours outside in the cold!

Tent Lady by The Love Corporation
In the early evening, I walked downtown to Reykjavik's Art Museum at Hafnarhus. Since the first floor was closed off for a private party, it was free entrance. Usual hours are 10 am - 5 pm with extended hours Thursdays until 8 pm (1300 krona; ~$11.50). I arrived just in time to take the free guided tour at 6 pm. There was quite a variety of art there. The pieces that intrigued me were the performance artists, including Ragnar Kjartansson's "God". There is also a large exhibition of Erro, probably the most famous Icelandic contemporary artist.


The next day, I stopped at the museum 871+/-2. This museum is built around an excavation of a turf house below the street level of Reykjavik. In 871 +/- 2 years, there was a volcanic eruption in Iceland that covered this house, letting archaeologists date it accurately to pre-871 AD. The museum was full of Viking artifacts. It also had a great interactive display showing how turf houses were constructed.  (1300 krona; ~$11.50)


In the afternoon, I took the afternoon Golden Circle Tour on Sterna.  The tour bus picked me up directly from my hostel. We began looking out over a large lake as well as a geothermal power plant. All of the metal pipes running around Iceland are pipes transferring hot water. This water is used to heat and generate electricity. Since the water is so abundant and inexpensive (about $40/month for water and electricity all year round), Icelanders even install hot water pipes under their driveways to melt the snow. No need to shovel in Iceland!



We saw amazing natural wonders on the Golden Circle Tour, including an active geyser and the impressive Gullfoss waterfall. We also stopped in Thingveller National Park to visit the site of the Viking's original parliament founded in 930 AD. It is against one side of the divide between two tectonic plates. They couldn't have picked a more picturesque location to meet. It was a great overall tour; and, all the fresh air wore me out (I was falling asleep in the tour bus between stops). (9000 krona; ~$80)

Just after geyser erupted

For me, two days was plenty to explore chilly Iceland. However, if you're the more outdoorsy type, I'd highly recommend a longer visit. You can camp almost anywhere on the island. While high season is the summer, winter tourism is also picking up to see the aurora borealis. Just be prepared with appropriate gear. We saw several cyclists attempting to bike through the driving winds (thankfully there was no rain). Even our tour guide wouldn't recommend cycling Iceland.


Some Icelandic trivia:
*Did you know that there are more sheep than people in Iceland?
*Do you know what year Iceland became a nation? 1944. Before that, it was part of Denmark

Some Icelandic jokes:
*How many trees make up a forest in Iceland? 2
*What do you do if you get lost in a forest in Iceland? stand up (because the trees are so young and short that you can look over them)





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