2015-10 Oct -- Coba (Mexico)

Ball court in Coba

The road from Tulum to Coba is smooth, paved, with speed limits between 90-110 km/hour. It's as nice as many of the toll roads that I've experienced thus far in Mexico; but, it's free! Visiting the Yucatan Peninsula really is stepping into a completely different area of Mexico. In order to beat the heat, I drove straight from the Tulum Archaeological Site to the Coba Archaeological Site. It's only about 45 minutes away. The town is tiny. The entrance to the ruins is immense in comparison. Just past the entrance, there is ample parking along with a couple restaurants and gift shops. I eagerly flashed my Mexican Temporary Resident card to the cashier, who didn't feel that my free entrance was even worthy of a ticket. The guard inside the entrance studied my residence card long and hard before allowing me to continue up the dirt path.

The "church" of Coba

Corbelled arches of Coba 

I had read that Coba is the chance to feel the amazement of coming upon ruins still engulfed by the jungle like Frederick Catherwood and John Lloyd Stephens. In reality, Coba has dirt paths that are wide enough for pedicabs to pass. Yet, the paths and area immediately surrounding ruins are the only areas without dense foliage. The trees along the paths provide lots of shade for pedestrian and bicycle traffic.  The first area of ruins includes a ball court and the "church" of Coba, which is a pyramid rising from the jungle. Unfortunately, we could not climb this pyramid. However, it did provide great examples of the Mayan corbelled arch style. The Mayans would place stones extending just a little closer together in each level with a stone lintel resting on top.

Stelae

Stelae

Throughout the site, there were lots of stelae. Unfortunately, many of the bas-relief carvings and hieroglyphics are completely eroded away.

The real draw of Coba is the ability to climb it's pyramid, Nohoch Mul. (According to the placard, "Nohoch Mul" means "big mound" in Mayan.) It is the only Mayan pyramid that I've visited thus far that is open for the public to climb. Plus, it's even taller than Chichen Itza. Climbing the steep narrow steps to the top didn't seem too difficult. At the top, the view was amazing! Stretching to the horizon is endless jungle. But, coming back down the steps, with a single rope for assistance, proved to be a test of balance, patience and shaky leg muscles. It was worth every step!

Arriving at Nohoch Mul!

The view from the top of Nohoch Mul.

The final collection of ruins at Coba are called the Macanxoc Group. Between Nohoch Mul and Macanxoc, there are several little ruins off the larger, main path. At these times, it sometimes can feel like rediscovering long lost ruins, as you slip down a barely used trail to view ruins half consumed by the vegetation. Yet, nothing is far from a dirt trail for pedestrians, bicyclists or a waiting pedicab.

Travel in style with a pedicab

After all the excitement of Coba, I was hungry. On my way out, I stopped to ask the guard for a recommendation for lunch. My request was for food that was good as well as inexpensive. He directed me to drive out of the parking area, take a right, and go past the traffic cones until I came to a place with tables and chairs outside. "Como se llama?" [What's it called?], I asked. "No tiene nombre." [It doesn't have a name.] I sighed. But, I followed his directions and came to a little cafe with tables and chairs outside. Under the patio roof, there were a group of foreigners eating and drinking. I sat at a table next to the kitchen area. A lady came out and started listing off juice options. One of them was "chaya". I'd never heard of chaya before. She told me that it was like spinach and pointed to a plant in the median of the road. Always up for something new, I tried the chaya juice accompanied with a plate of "poc-chuc", Mayan for grilled pork. In a country that knows how to do pork, the poc-chuc didn't disappoint. About half an inch thick, the pork was juicy and tender. While the ladies worked in the kitchen, they spoke in a language the I didn't recognize. Finally I asked them in what language they were speaking. It was Mayan. They were very friendly and even gave me a chaya leaf as a souvenir.

Lunch -- chaya juice, poc-chuc and homemade tortillas. Yum!

Travel Notes:
Ruins:
- Coba Archaeological Site. Parking for 30 MXN. Entrance is 64 MXN and free on Sundays if you are a Mexican national or resident. Bicycle rentals in the site are 45 MXN/hour. Renting a pedicab is 70 MXN/hour. The only bathrooms are behind the ticket booth, before entering the park.

Food:

Inside the Mayan cafe

- the no name cafe outside of Tulum Archaeological Park. The chaya juice and poc-chuc cost a total of 100 MXN (110 with tip).

Chaya plant