Cycling Muo to Podgorica (Montenegro)

Bay of Kotor

It was another wet morning. The rain had stopped long enough to get us prepped and on our bikes. However, as soon as we got on the road, it started sprinkling. We stopped to put on raincoats. Today’s route took us along the bay to Kotor. Then we started climbing the switchbacks out of town up to Lovcen Park.  I’m very thankful that the climb was gradual enough that I could grind up in my second to last gear, the lowest gear currently working on my bike. Thankfully, the rain stopped; and, we soon removed our raincoats. It ended up being perfect cycling weather for the long climb up at the entrance: overcast and cool. Our tour leader was waiting at the entrance; and, she informed us that we’d need to skip Lovcen Park and take the alternative route, or we wouldn’t make it to our hotel before it was dark today. That saved us 10 km of distance and 500 meters of climbing elevation. 

Bay of Kotor

The rest stop at the entrance wasn’t open, so, we followed the alternate route to the next cafe. The door was locked but a server on the level below said that they were open if we came downstairs. They were closing for the season tomorrow. Inside, there was even a cozy fireplace! After quick hot drinks, we were on our way.

Former French Embassy

Today we went through three different tunnels, all well paved and well lit. Our lunch stop was in the historic city of Cetinje, which was originally the capital of Montenegro. As we were getting close to the lunch stop, there was a very unique building that made us stop. It was the former French Embassy, completed in 1910. Beautiful architecture! We lunched at Gradska, where I ate a ricotta cheese salad with beets and oranges as well as a delicious piece of chocolate cake and drank hot chocolate. 

Cetinje Monastery 

After lunch, we wandered over to the outside of the Njegos Museum of Biljards, the medieval castle church and the Cetinje Monastery. Lots of fun architecture with informational signs! Then, we hopped back on our bicycles and headed out of town for some more climbing. By now, the sun was peeking out. We were on a busier road but then turned onto a narrow road through wine country. The road could barely fit a car and a bike across yet was a two way road. Along the edge, wild pomegranate bushes grew. When the vegetation cleared, the views were magnificent!

Rural vista

However, a rain cloud caught up to us, which cut short one of our photo breaks. Rain jackets back on, we cycled until we got out of the rain. At that point, we were in a small town, next to a monument that looked to be for soldiers from WWII. We looked up some Yugoslavian history on Encyclopedia Britannica while we ate. Then the rain caught up to us again; and, we were back on our bicycles, climbing up through the wet. 

WWII monument?

When we eventually escaped the rain again, we could hear loud music coming from a restaurant in the middle of nowhere. It was a happening place full of cars. We pulled off nearby to get photos of yet another terrific view, this one of the Pavlova Strana River.

Pavlova Strana River

It was time to make up some mileage, though. We had to get back on a busy road. Our shadows were beginning to grow longer. At least we were cruising downhill into Podgorica, before turning off into an
industrial area on the edge of town. We had to make one final photo stop for the rainbow behind us. Then, the wind picked up; and, too late, we realized that we’d soaked in the scenery too long today, as the rain pelted us all the way to the hotel.