2017-11 Angkor Thom and Baphuon Temple (Cambodia)

First view of Angkor Thom from across the moat

Our final visit near Siem Reap was to Angkor Thom. This complex is part of the extensive networks of temples and palaces around Angkor Wat and included in the price of the Angkor Wat ticket. Angkor Thom is a very impressive site of 9 square kilometers (3.5 sq miles) encompassing both older temples and palaces.

gods tugging on naga

Our driver left us off outside of the moat surrounding Angkor Thom. We took photos of the surrounding wall, entrance gate and bridge with the reflections in the water. Angkor Thom is a truly impressive complex that rivals Angkor Wat. Even walking across the bridge must have awed the people who first crossed it starting in the 13th century.

Entrance gate to Angkor Thom

The first iconography that we saw were a row of demons on the right side of the bridge, tugging on a naga, or seven-headed snake. A matching row of gods tugged on an identical naga on the left side of the bridge. This is part of a Hindu story of churning the sea of milk, that we had seen in an intricate bas relief in Angkor Wat. While some of the original gods and demons remain, many portions have been restored with new stone.

Tourist riding an elephant outside Bayon Temple

The bridge supported moto-scooters, pedestrians, and tourist vans, as we ambled toward the towering gate, crowned by the four faces of Buddha. We watched a tourist bus just barely squeeze under those heads and through the gate. On the back of the gate, we could see a sculpture of a three-headed elephant. According to our guide, these three heads represent the three competing familial relationships once a person is married.

We walked on until we saw the large temple of Angkor Thom: the Bayon. This was built by the same king that built Ta Prohm: Jayarvanam VII, the Buddhist king. Along the walls of the temple, there are detailed bas reliefs detailing Jayarvanam VII's defeat of the Chamba people, who were living it what is now southern Vietnam. There were also bas reliefs about daily life. The walls on each of the Bayon temple were covered in these intricate stories.

Within the temple, there are 54 towers. Many of these temples have the four faces of Buddha. However, since Jayarvanam VII was the first Buddhist king and did not want to alienate his Hindu following subjects, he also included Hindu statues. Therefore, the Bayon Temple was a merged Hindu-Buddhist place of worship.

Buddha faces sculpted on the towers in Bayon Temple

We wandered among the towers, staring up at the smiling faces of the Buddha. Interestingly, a later king subscribed to Hinduism; and, he had the third eye carved into the foreheads of all the Buddhas.

View from the top of Baphuon Temple

Our next stop was to the Baphuon Temple. This temple is older than the walls, gates and Bayon. It was built during the 1000s AD. There is a square swimming pool in the front; and, it is still possible to clim at least to the top covered walkway, albeit not to the very top. The views on the top were spectacular! After we descended and exited the back of the temple, our guide pointed out that the architect of the Baphuon had skillfully designed a reclining Buddha into the back of the temple.

Reclining Buddha in back of Baphuon Temple

Our next stop was to the Phimeanakas Temple, perhaps the oldest building within Angkor Thom. It was built during the 900s but was used by Jayarvanam VII as well as a place to come to pray. Our guide told us a story about the king having to visit the tower of the temple before going into battle. The story he told was that the naga (snake) would appear as a beautiful woman that the king needed to sleep with in order to bring victory in battle.

Phimeanakas Temple

We did drive by and photo stops of several other places after Phimeanakas. However, we were all so overheated by this point, that our new joke every time we would get in the van was "Just one more temple...".