2017-11 National Museum, Bangkok (Thailand)

Buddha from 16th century AD, Ayutthaya style, Phra Nakhon Si

Google maps isn't always the best judge of how to get from point A to point B, especially in a country other than the U.S. After attempting to follow, Google, I ended up inside a walled complex, where I asked a young couple where the museum was. They were also tourists. However, a local heard us talking in English and came to our rescue, giving us directions to get to the National Museum. Following his directions, I got a bit closer before turning into another walled complex and asking a military policeman, who pointed me further down the road. Finally, though, I arrived to the National Museum, with a friendly employee pointing me to the ticket office.

Map of National Museum

Upon purchasing my ticket, the cashier handed me a map of the complex with over half of the rooms crossed off. "These are all closed?" I asked. She pointed me to the sign next to the window "No Refunds". Huh. Well, now that I was here, time to explore.

Vishnus from 6th-86h century A.D., from Si Maha Phot

If you only have time to see one hall in the National Museum, my recommendation would be 1: "Siwamokkhaphiman Audience Hall and Gallery of Thai History". It has a video in the beginning with subtitles in English walking through the different time periods in Thai history. This really helps to put into perspective the artifacts within this hall. 

Even the halls are historic buildings. This sign reminds us not to touch the railing next to the stairs

Within the hall, there are choice pieces from the museum's permanent collection. It covers all time periods from pre-history to the Bangkok period. My favorite pieces are usually the oldest; and, this gallery was no exception. There was a beautiful representation of a Bodhisattva Avalokiteshvara from the 9th century AD (Srivijaya style).

Bodhisattva Avaokiteshvara from Wat Wiang, 9th century AD, Srivijaya style

While most of the items were representations of gods or religious stories, there were also a few choice urbane pieces, such as a bas relief depicting female musicians. This is also from the 8th-9th century (Dvaravati style).

Female musicians, 8th-9th century AD, Dvaravati style, found at Khu Bua

The other halls within the museum contain so many different historical items! Even though the 500s rooms were closed for renovations, visiting the rooms numbered in the 300s and 400s yielded a wealth of items from all time periods within Thai history. In addition, there were several items from around the world, mostly southeast Asia.

First Thai typewriter

Definitely give yourself several hours to visit this beautiful museum, whether all the galleries are open or not.

Quick notes:

- 200 Baht entrance fee

- open 9 am - 4 pm, Wed thru Sunday and national holidays (except New Year and Songkran)

2017-11 Angkor Thom and Baphuon Temple (Cambodia)

First view of Angkor Thom from across the moat

Our final visit near Siem Reap was to Angkor Thom. This complex is part of the extensive networks of temples and palaces around Angkor Wat and included in the price of the Angkor Wat ticket. Angkor Thom is a very impressive site of 9 square kilometers (3.5 sq miles) encompassing both older temples and palaces.

gods tugging on naga

Our driver left us off outside of the moat surrounding Angkor Thom. We took photos of the surrounding wall, entrance gate and bridge with the reflections in the water. Angkor Thom is a truly impressive complex that rivals Angkor Wat. Even walking across the bridge must have awed the people who first crossed it starting in the 13th century.

Entrance gate to Angkor Thom

The first iconography that we saw were a row of demons on the right side of the bridge, tugging on a naga, or seven-headed snake. A matching row of gods tugged on an identical naga on the left side of the bridge. This is part of a Hindu story of churning the sea of milk, that we had seen in an intricate bas relief in Angkor Wat. While some of the original gods and demons remain, many portions have been restored with new stone.

Tourist riding an elephant outside Bayon Temple

The bridge supported moto-scooters, pedestrians, and tourist vans, as we ambled toward the towering gate, crowned by the four faces of Buddha. We watched a tourist bus just barely squeeze under those heads and through the gate. On the back of the gate, we could see a sculpture of a three-headed elephant. According to our guide, these three heads represent the three competing familial relationships once a person is married.

We walked on until we saw the large temple of Angkor Thom: the Bayon. This was built by the same king that built Ta Prohm: Jayarvanam VII, the Buddhist king. Along the walls of the temple, there are detailed bas reliefs detailing Jayarvanam VII's defeat of the Chamba people, who were living it what is now southern Vietnam. There were also bas reliefs about daily life. The walls on each of the Bayon temple were covered in these intricate stories.

Within the temple, there are 54 towers. Many of these temples have the four faces of Buddha. However, since Jayarvanam VII was the first Buddhist king and did not want to alienate his Hindu following subjects, he also included Hindu statues. Therefore, the Bayon Temple was a merged Hindu-Buddhist place of worship.

Buddha faces sculpted on the towers in Bayon Temple

We wandered among the towers, staring up at the smiling faces of the Buddha. Interestingly, a later king subscribed to Hinduism; and, he had the third eye carved into the foreheads of all the Buddhas.

View from the top of Baphuon Temple

Our next stop was to the Baphuon Temple. This temple is older than the walls, gates and Bayon. It was built during the 1000s AD. There is a square swimming pool in the front; and, it is still possible to clim at least to the top covered walkway, albeit not to the very top. The views on the top were spectacular! After we descended and exited the back of the temple, our guide pointed out that the architect of the Baphuon had skillfully designed a reclining Buddha into the back of the temple.

Reclining Buddha in back of Baphuon Temple

Our next stop was to the Phimeanakas Temple, perhaps the oldest building within Angkor Thom. It was built during the 900s but was used by Jayarvanam VII as well as a place to come to pray. Our guide told us a story about the king having to visit the tower of the temple before going into battle. The story he told was that the naga (snake) would appear as a beautiful woman that the king needed to sleep with in order to bring victory in battle.

Phimeanakas Temple

We did drive by and photo stops of several other places after Phimeanakas. However, we were all so overheated by this point, that our new joke every time we would get in the van was "Just one more temple...".

2017-10 National Museum of Cambodia

5th century AD stelae carved in Sanskrit and Old Khmer

The National Museum in Phnom Penh has quite a variety of artifacts on display. Even better, it has great informational cards in English with lots of background. Our guide kept telling us that the Khmer people had an empire long before the Thais or Laos, an empire that stretched from Burma to China. The pieces in the museum dated from the 5th century AD, including an stelae inscribed in both Sanskrit and Old Khmer languages.

Vishnu sculpture from 6th century AD, pre-Angkorian period

Reclining Vishnu from the 11th century (Angkorian period)

Which brings us to an interesting point: the Khmer (or, at least their kings) followed Hinduism. Thus the use of Sanskrit on inscriptions and the plethora of Hindu gods in their art. However, at the same time, the Khmer people (and their kings) also followed Buddhism. I’m not well-versed in either; however, sufficeth to say, there are also lots of Buddhas in their sculpture and art.

Buddha seated on naga, the seven-headed snake, 11th century

At the museum, the sculptures that caught my eye were those of Vishnu (Hindu) and the Buddha on “naga”, the seven-headed snake. There was also a very human statue of Jayarvanam VII, who embraced Buddhism completely. Instead of looking like a stylized or perfect royalty, this sculpture looks like an actual person.  We would visit two of his temples in Siem Reap: Ta Prohm (the Tomb Raider temple) and Angkor Thom.

Jayarvanam VII, Angkorian period, turn of century (12th-13th)

In another room, there were detailed paintings of the Hindu Ramayana story. These intricately detailed panels tell the story that the Khmer call Reamker. Another room held an an entire collection of wooden Buddhas. (We were not allowed to photograph this room). There were also pottery and bronze items in other rooms and halls. Plus, there are some items from the previous Cambodia royalty, such as palanquins used to carry royalty. All in all, a very interesting museum.

Panel from Reamker, early 1900s