2017-11 National Museum, Bangkok (Thailand)

Buddha from 16th century AD, Ayutthaya style, Phra Nakhon Si

Google maps isn't always the best judge of how to get from point A to point B, especially in a country other than the U.S. After attempting to follow, Google, I ended up inside a walled complex, where I asked a young couple where the museum was. They were also tourists. However, a local heard us talking in English and came to our rescue, giving us directions to get to the National Museum. Following his directions, I got a bit closer before turning into another walled complex and asking a military policeman, who pointed me further down the road. Finally, though, I arrived to the National Museum, with a friendly employee pointing me to the ticket office.

Map of National Museum

Upon purchasing my ticket, the cashier handed me a map of the complex with over half of the rooms crossed off. "These are all closed?" I asked. She pointed me to the sign next to the window "No Refunds". Huh. Well, now that I was here, time to explore.

Vishnus from 6th-86h century A.D., from Si Maha Phot

If you only have time to see one hall in the National Museum, my recommendation would be 1: "Siwamokkhaphiman Audience Hall and Gallery of Thai History". It has a video in the beginning with subtitles in English walking through the different time periods in Thai history. This really helps to put into perspective the artifacts within this hall. 

Even the halls are historic buildings. This sign reminds us not to touch the railing next to the stairs

Within the hall, there are choice pieces from the museum's permanent collection. It covers all time periods from pre-history to the Bangkok period. My favorite pieces are usually the oldest; and, this gallery was no exception. There was a beautiful representation of a Bodhisattva Avalokiteshvara from the 9th century AD (Srivijaya style).

Bodhisattva Avaokiteshvara from Wat Wiang, 9th century AD, Srivijaya style

While most of the items were representations of gods or religious stories, there were also a few choice urbane pieces, such as a bas relief depicting female musicians. This is also from the 8th-9th century (Dvaravati style).

Female musicians, 8th-9th century AD, Dvaravati style, found at Khu Bua

The other halls within the museum contain so many different historical items! Even though the 500s rooms were closed for renovations, visiting the rooms numbered in the 300s and 400s yielded a wealth of items from all time periods within Thai history. In addition, there were several items from around the world, mostly southeast Asia.

First Thai typewriter

Definitely give yourself several hours to visit this beautiful museum, whether all the galleries are open or not.

Quick notes:

- 200 Baht entrance fee

- open 9 am - 4 pm, Wed thru Sunday and national holidays (except New Year and Songkran)

2017-10 National Museum of Cambodia

5th century AD stelae carved in Sanskrit and Old Khmer

The National Museum in Phnom Penh has quite a variety of artifacts on display. Even better, it has great informational cards in English with lots of background. Our guide kept telling us that the Khmer people had an empire long before the Thais or Laos, an empire that stretched from Burma to China. The pieces in the museum dated from the 5th century AD, including an stelae inscribed in both Sanskrit and Old Khmer languages.

Vishnu sculpture from 6th century AD, pre-Angkorian period

Reclining Vishnu from the 11th century (Angkorian period)

Which brings us to an interesting point: the Khmer (or, at least their kings) followed Hinduism. Thus the use of Sanskrit on inscriptions and the plethora of Hindu gods in their art. However, at the same time, the Khmer people (and their kings) also followed Buddhism. I’m not well-versed in either; however, sufficeth to say, there are also lots of Buddhas in their sculpture and art.

Buddha seated on naga, the seven-headed snake, 11th century

At the museum, the sculptures that caught my eye were those of Vishnu (Hindu) and the Buddha on “naga”, the seven-headed snake. There was also a very human statue of Jayarvanam VII, who embraced Buddhism completely. Instead of looking like a stylized or perfect royalty, this sculpture looks like an actual person.  We would visit two of his temples in Siem Reap: Ta Prohm (the Tomb Raider temple) and Angkor Thom.

Jayarvanam VII, Angkorian period, turn of century (12th-13th)

In another room, there were detailed paintings of the Hindu Ramayana story. These intricately detailed panels tell the story that the Khmer call Reamker. Another room held an an entire collection of wooden Buddhas. (We were not allowed to photograph this room). There were also pottery and bronze items in other rooms and halls. Plus, there are some items from the previous Cambodia royalty, such as palanquins used to carry royalty. All in all, a very interesting museum.

Panel from Reamker, early 1900s