2015-03 Mar - Guachimontones

Mound three

At only an hour outside of Guadalajara, Guachimontones sounded like the perfect day trip to visit old ruins in Mexico. It was also a chance to practice driving outside of the city. While there is probably a bus that runs to the town below, Guachimontones is still another taxi ride through the small town streets and winding, cobbled road up to the archaeological site. Entrance to the site and parking are all included in the 30 pesos/person fee.

Mound three and tomb/temple foundations

 The site itself boasts a small museum near the parking lot. This is where I started. While the museum exhibits didn't present a wealth of information, there was a film about Guachimontones showing in the auditorium; and, it was in English! One of the docents even tracked me down in the museum to make sure that I would get to see the English version. Hopefully, I have remembered enough interesting facts below.

Mound two.

Guachimontones is a a collection of "montones" or mounds. Located up the hill from the town of Teuchitlan, it is easy to see why the inhabits lived here. It is an idyllic spot ringed by mountains and overlooking a peaceful laguna below. The museum film talked about the extensive obsidian deposits due to nearby Tequila Volcano. At the time of the city's inhabitation, obsidian was used for weapons, tools and even jewelry. Another key facet of the location is the laguna below. The inhabits farmed "chiampas" or floating gardens within the laguna.

Overlooking mound two from mound one

Three circular mounds, various platforms for tombs and houses and two ball courts have been excavated thus far. Mound three is quite short, sporting only four concentric circles, while mound two rises perfectly groomed with 13 steps plus another four on top. Both mound two and three are roped off to visitors. However, mound one, which is purportedly the largest but also in shambles, is open for climbing and provides a wonderful view of the other mounds, mountains, town and laguna below.

View from ruins on the outskirts of mound one.

The small platforms around the mound once held small houses as tombs. There are other platforms that held houses. At the time, both were made of bundles of reeds that were then coated with a mud mixture. There were lots of trucks overflowing with reeds on my way to and from Teuchitlan today. I wonder if those were the same type used over 2000 years ago in Guachimontones?

Ball court

The ball courts were long rectangles with a wider section at each end. Much like the serif capital letter "I". There were no ring hoops for the participants to get a ball through. Instead, the participants had to get the ball into their opponents side. The ball could only be touched with the hips. According to the video, the ball courts were used as our court system is today: to settle disputes. It could have definitely save your life to be athletic.

Ball court on the left. Mound two on the right.

Army & Air Force Museum and Jalisco Stadium

Planes at Army and Air Force Museum

Friday morning we started our free tour of Guadalajara at the Museo del Ejercito y Fuerza (Army and Air Force Museum) (Full information here). As we arrived, the museum guide asked us to form two lines. Then, we stood at attention while the military men walked out the Mexican flag and hoisted it atop the flag pole. Finally we sang the Mexican National Anthem. What a great, respectful way to begin our tour of this museum!

Mexican flags. Oldest on the left

Our first stop was the room of Mexican flags over the years. There are quite a variety of flags that have flown over Mexican soil, all the way back to Spanish conquistador times in the 16th century. The earliest flags are those to the left in the photo above. The tour guide quickly recited something about each of the 30 flags that surround this room.

Military outfits for indigenous people, pre-Spainish conquist

There was so much to see in this museum; and, our guide quickly whisked us through each of the exhibition rooms. Some highlights include replicas of warrior uniforms worn by the indigenous people who lived here before the Spanish arrived, a flag captured from rebel Texans in 1836, a room of weaponry from around the world collected by Porfirio Diaz and a plane that was built and flown by a 3rd grade educated Michoacan man in 1936 (after his epic flight, he became a pilot in the Mexican Air Force).

Flag taken from rebel Texans. It says "Liberty or Death"

Helmets from around the world from Porfirio Diaz's collection

Pinocho, a plane built by a Michoacan from plans in the magazine Popular Mechanics
Built 1934-1935
Flown 1936

Behind the main building, there are several different planes, including one that was used during WWII in the Pacific Theater.

WWII plane used in Pacific Theater

The next stop on our tour today was Jalisco Stadium. Our tour guide warned us that may not be able to get in, as the stadium doesn't give public tours. We anxiously waited in the bus while our tour guide ventured into the stadium. A few minutes later she was jogging out to the bus saying that she had been told "let me see". We eagerly eyed the door. A few minutes later, a gentleman walked out to talk to our guide and welcomed us inside!

Jalisco Stadium

For those Americans not familiar the world wide popularity of soccer, think of American football. However, soccer isn't confined to just one country. It's a global phenomenon with a World Cup match every four years  (alternating even years with the summer Olympics). We were about to get a tour of the stadium used by four different soccer teams in Guadalajara. We started by sitting in the stands of the most exclusive section of the stadium, through Gate 1. But, we didn't stop there.

Chapel under Jalisco Stadium

Next, our stadium guide led us under the stadium to the small chapel where mass is held before each of the games. Few people outside of players and coaches ever see this intimate space.

Jalisco Stadium locker rooms

Then, our guide told us we would be going to the home team locker rooms and the field seats. Previously rowdy boys quieted in awe at the chance to see such wonders. They became well behaved in seconds. The locker rooms are used by four different teams; and, therefore, there are no names assigned to each locker. Yet, this is the space used by countless soccer players since it was built in 1960. It was used during the 1968 Olympics as well as for two World Cups (1970 and 1986).

Sitting in the players' seats on the field

We exited the locker room and took the stairs down and then up to come out on the field at the seats for the home team. With repeated exhortations "Don't step on the grass" from our guide and the grounds crew, we posed for photos on the edge of the field. What a once in a lifetime chance to visit the inside of Jalisco Stadium!

Zapopan

Basilica of Zapopan

On Thursday, we toured the city of Zapopan. Today, it's basically a suburb of the Guadalajara. However, it was originally populated by Zapotecs before the arrival of the Spanish conquistadors in 1530. Since the population was dwindling, the Spaniards moved other indigenous people into the area. Zapopan's claim to fame came with these immigrants and a missionary intent on evangelizing them. It is a small statue called the Virgin of Zapopan.

Found here (scroll to bottom of blog):
http://peregrinozapopano.blogspot.mx/2007_02_01_archive.html

The Virgin of Zapopan was made by a local artist in Michoacan in the 16th century using the local technique of "pasta de cana" (paste made from stalks, in this case, corn stalks). The original is quite eloquently innocent (see above). It stands a mere 34 cm (13 inches) tall. It was transported from Michoacan to Zapopan by Fray Antonio de Segovia. Today, the statue resides at the front of the Basilica of Zapopan, a Franciscan church started in the 17th century and completed in the 19th century. The Virgin of Zapopan has been placed on a pedestal of silver, clothed in rich garments and crowned (see below). Due to its diminutive size, it's difficult to even make out the Virgin's face when standing in the church.

The Virgin of Zapopan, dressed and crowned.

There's a great museum of the Huichol or Wixaritari people housed inside the Basilica. This indigenous tribe still live traditionally in the state of Jalisco today. There's examples of their clothing, houses and craft work as well as descriptions of many Huichol traditions. Unfortunately, we were not allowed to take any photos inside of the museums. But, if you'd like to know more about their traditions, visit the museum (only 10 pesos for adults and 5 pesos for kids) or check out this link: http://wixarika.mediapark.net/en/.

Vortice by Marcela Armas

Next, we walked to Zapopan's Museum of Art.  It's a small, contemporary art museum. The current exhibitions include work by Marcela Armas and Humberto Ramirez. When you first walk into the museum, the first piece that greets you is a double helix mobile hanging from the ceiling. It is made up of cogs with texts printed on them. Every once in a while a motor runs and turns all the cogs along the spiral.

Collage of sports images by Humberto Ramirez

On the second floor is the work by Humberto Ramirez, exploring the concept of games and sportsmanship. There are a variety of objects, including collages with images from different sporting events, hunting images, and a movie of a man attempting a hot dog eating challenge. MAZ is open Tuesday through Sundays from 10-6 and Thursdays from 10-10. Free entry.

Our final stop today was Parque Avila Camacho. At this park, you can rent paddle boats and paddle along a river. There are jungle gyms as well as a bounce house for a kids. The entire park has wide, paved paths for cyclists and pedestrians. One kid was even riding his electric skateboard along the pavement while his dad was videoing. Plus, there are lots of chairs and shade to sit under. Very family friendly. Entrance is free; but, there is a fee for parking.

100% Agave Tequila!

Tequila! In the USA, it's a name synonymous with a type of hard liquor. But, did you know that Tequila is also the name of a town in Mexico? In fact, there are 22 different tequila companies in the town of Tequila. The name "tequila" can only be used on the liquor produced from the blue agave plant in a only a couple states in Mexico. The state that produces the most is Jalisco, where the town of Tequila is located. Today, we were going to explore two tequila companies in Tequila: 3 Mujeres and La Cofradia.

Agave field at 3 Mujeres

What makes 3 Mujeres special? It is all organic. 3 Mujeres organically grows it's own agave plants, which take 7-12 years to mature. It's tempting to go non-organic to speed up the process (e.g. Sauza injects it's agave plants with growth hormone so that they mature in only three years).

Roasted agave -- it's sweet!

When we first arrived at 3 Mujeres, we were treated to snacks of roasted agave. Like sugar cane, it's to be chewed and sucked on but not swallowed. These pieces of agave were surprisingly sweet!

Jimador supervising tourist chopping agave leaves

Next, the jimador, a person who harvests agave, let us try chopping the leaves from an uprooted agave plant. Originally, the natives had used the leaves and spines of the agave plant for food, fibers and as roofs. However, today only the heart of the agave is used to make tequila.

3 Mujeres steam cooks the agave hearts for 48 hours in these large ovens. There are other ways to speed up the process. For example, some distilleries roast the agave, which can shorten the processing time to 8-10 hours.

Machine to juice agave

Truck full of agave fiber

Then, the agave hearts are cooled for 10 hours before being run through the above contraption. This machine strains out the juice. The fibers are dumped into a waiting truck and used as fertilizer on the fields.

3 Mujeres Tequilas. From left to right:
Extra Anejo, Anejo, Reposado, Blanco

Finally, the agave juice is distilled in waiting vats. Did you know that all tequila starts from the same agave juice? The only difference is how long each matures in oak barrels. Tequila Blanco (usually clear) is ready almost immediately. 3 Mujeres Reposado Tequila (slightly tinted) is aged for 10 months in oak barrels. Anejo and Extra Anejo Tequilas are matured for years.

Tequila barrel transportation in Tequila

After tasting these four types of tequila, we got back on the bus for a sight seeing tour into the town of Tequila. We couldn't stop in Tequila without stopping by Jose Cuervo's large store. Did you know that they also manufacture and sell Cholula, the hot sauce?

Jose Cuervo

Jose Cuervo is a pure tequila distillery. It doesn't grow any of it's own agave. Instead, it purchases agave from producers. Therefore, only a small percentage, family reserve, is made completely traditionally and organically. However, Jose Cuervo is the oldest tequila manufacturer still in business. Jose Cuervo received official distillery license from the Spanish government in 1795!

Specialized Jose Cuervo Family Reserve box designs

Don't worry, we did stop and eat. We had some ice cream. And, something from a bag of Tostitos (we're not really sure what this is):

Tostitos snack

Plus, there was a stop at a fancy restaurant with a basic buffet and a live mariachi band. Really, though, we were just killing time until we could get to the next tequila farm, La Cofradia.

La Cofradia is a relatively recent entrant into the tequila business. It was established in 1990 by Carlos Hernandez Hernandez. He had some interesting innovations for the tequila business, including building his cellar around the trees instead of cutting them down. In this way, his cellar is cooled by the trees' shade. It's only other cooling comes from strategically placed windows.

Outside La Cofradia Cellar.
Tree branches poke through roof.

Inside La Cofradia Cellar.
Tree growing inside.

La Cofradia has a small but interesting museum on-site that talks about the history of the company as well as the history of tequila. The quick synopsis of tequila:
1. Our guide told us that the word tequila comes from a Nahautl word for the obsidian rock from the now dormant Tequila Volcano. "Tequila" basically meant the people who cut things with obsidian rock (e.g. agave harvesters)
2. The native Nahautl were producing a fermented agave drink called "pulque".
3. The Spaniards, running out of brandy, were searching for a local alternative.
4. The Spanish government enjoyed significant income from the taxes levied on tequila (originally called mezcal wine).
5. Every once in awhile there was a ban on all tequila by the government.
6. But, tequila is still around and becoming even more popular today!

La Cofradia tequila brands

Some tour options of Tequila:
Tequila Express (train) - 1200 pesos (~$100 USD) - http://reservaciones.tequilaexpress.com.mx/
Jose Cuervo Express (train) - 1350-1530 pesos (~$110-$130) - http://www.josecuervoexpress.com/es/compra/reserva-tu-experiencia.html
Tequila Grande tour (bus) - 450-750 pesos (~$40-$65) - http://www.tequilagrandtour.mx/

Museum Tour

During Semana Santa (Holy Week) and Semana Pascua (Easter Week), all of the schools are closed in Mexico. It's the ultimate spring break. During these weeks, various city tourism organizations provide free tours. Tuesday morning, I took advantage of the Museum Tour.

First stop was the Rotunda of the Illustrious Jaliscans. Buried inside are remains of famous Jaliscans. Around the rotunda are statues of other famous Jaliscans.

Dress worn by Maria Victoria

Next, we passed onto a house from the 18th century that is now the Lopez Portillo Museum. It contains a collection of furniture from the time period. In addition, it was currently exhibiting a variety of dresses from the time period and dresses of the Guadalajara singer and actress Maria Victoria.

Casa de los Perros

Then we visited the Museum of Periodicals and Graphic Arts. It's in a very large, old house. I can't remember the date that the house was built. However, it has been in use at least since 1792 as a printing press. Previously, it was a one story building. However, when the owner, Don Jesus Flores married his neighbor Dona Ana, part of the marriage contract was to build a second story on the building. She also wanted to travel. The building is called Casa de los Perros (House of the Dogs) because of the two statues of dogs that they brought back from New York. Currently, the house is a museum of printing, radio and television equipment. When you walk in the door, there are three large wood blocks that were used to make one print. The museum houses special exhibitions, too. We saw a collection of small prints from various artists. On the top floor, you can see how telephones changed Mexico. There are photos of telephone poles and lines being introduced as well as photos of the switchboard operators.

Impression cylinder for printing

Our final stop was the Museum of Saints and Beatos. (Blesseds? These are holy people that are not yet saints.) It was a small museum. For those who were Catholic in the group, it was very interesting to hear about the different Saints and Blesseds.

More information on free tours these two weeks:
http://vive.guadalajara.gob.mx/es/recorridos-gratuitos-semana-santa-y-pascua.html

From door to patio

Hasta la vista, little condo!

Yesterday, I closed the bright yellow door of my condo. With suitcase so heavy that I could barely roll it and backpack and purse strung over my shoulders, I walked the two blocks to the city bus stop. The city bus dropped me at the megabus stop.  Megabus boasts seats as low as $1 (plus service charge) and free WiFi. The total cost for me to travel from Austin to San Antonio was $4.75. The WiFi, however, was less than satisfactory.

My luggage, propped up by the megabus stop sign.

Megabus dropped us in a parking lot downtown. Since Austin had taxis waiting a block away, I hadn't called ahead for a taxi to meet me in San Antonio. A generous public health professor going to the downtown University of Texas San Antonio offered to share his cab with me. Within twenty minutes, I was at the airport. Checking into my flight, I was doing pretty good conversing with the Volaris attendant in Spanish. Then he quickly rattled off a long question; and, I was lost. Thankfully, he spoke English, too. If you're traveling to Mexico, Volaris is a lower priced option that services select US cities.

The customs and immigration process in Guadalajara was quick and painless. Then, I was out the door, looking for a familiar face in the lobby. It was such a welcoming sight to see my coworker Ivan waiting for me. Outside, another coworker, Mario, was waiting with the car. These two navigated their way through rush hour traffic to the house that I would be staying at. Thankfully, my coworker Hector had talked to the owners and visited a couple potential places for me to stay. The place that Hector recommended is perfect! Both Maribel and Rosalva were waiting for me on my arrival. They showed me the large bedroom, shared bathroom, kitchen and living areas. The crowning glory is the back patio. Two other girls share the place with me.

Enjoying the back patio

Then, Ivan, Mario and I were off to Chapultepec to find some supper. Unfortunately, I was too tired and hungry last night to remember to take pictures of all we saw. There's a broad median down the middle Chapultepec. People were walking; skateboarders were showing off; and, there was a saxophonist performing. We turned off on a side street for some street tacos. I ate a lengua (tongue) taco and a vampiro (fried taco shell on bottom). The lengua was a slice of tongue. It was so tender and delicious! We also stopped by El Callejon de los Rumberos to check out the salsa dancing. It was too early in the evening for anyone to be social dancing. However, there was a salsa class going upstairs. Such energy!

On my return to the house, I met one of my roommates. She is studying to become a medical doctor. She's either at school or studying most of the day. It's going to be a nice, quiet living situation. However, I'm not used to living on a through street. It might take me a few days to get used to all the cars going by.

Charles de Gaulle in the Jardin de Francia (French Garden)

The advantage of this neighborhood is that it's within walking distance of a great trail, convenience stores and public transportation. This morning, I wandered through the French Garden, complete with statue of Charles de Gualle. On my saunter, I stopped at a fresh fruit store for some breakfast--a fresh mango and a sugary empenada. The fruit here tastes so much better than anything in the States. It's going to be a good couple of months.